Its not the will to win that matters - everyone has that. Its the will to prepare to win that matters. Paul "Bear" Bryant

This boulder is located about 100 yards south of the Hillbilly Boulder by the creek and about 100 yards northwest of the Oriental Wall.​​

East facing

Hillbilly Boulder

When you've got something to prove, there's nothing better than a challenge.  Terry Bradshaw

The five S's of sports training are: stamina, speed, strength, skill, and spirit; but the greatest of these is spirit.  Ken Doughtery

A very bizarre climb, brings  you through a few ledges, wander left to non positive holds, work your way to one roof then another.  Should be bolted by spring 2015

62. Hillbilly Heroin 5.10-11

This boulder is located south of the Psychadelic Wall/Boulder about 300 yards. Follow cliff line in back of Jesus Boulder to a corridor, go through the corridor when it opens the second time on your right, the wall will be on your right. 

​​East facing

Psychadelic Wall

HARD! This climb takes you through a crimpy downward traverse mid way to a series of small non positive holds and pockets finishing with a dyno. WOW! 3 bolts  FA  Scott Fitzgerald  Equipper Jerry Barnett

​61. Psych Tripping 5.13

Work your way up onto a shelf then lieback a crack to a hard thin difficult move or two brings you to slightly easier climbing. 4 bolts

​project

60. Liquid Mushroom 5.12+

​project

33. Apocalypse Daydream 5.12+ 

Out of difficulties grow miracles      Jean de la Bruyere

Proceed  on a nice crack as you lieback and climb a slightly overhanging section up top. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

32. Intergalactic Prophylactic 5.7

Easy fun climbing through pockets, ledges, and jugs. 2 bolts  FA Jerry Barnett

31. Space Age Love Song 5.7

Start on a bulge then proceed to climb the slab to the anchors, large holds abound. 2 bolts          FA  Jerry Barnett

Cross the stream from PK Boulder and walk about 60 yards south

Climb under a roof using a finger tip undercling  to gain access to the upper face climbing. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett    Stick clip first bolt from boulder next to climb.

29. Geronimo's Revenge 5.10b

Climb along a crack using flakes, jugs and ...the crack. 3 bolts  Roger Mckinney                          

27. Easy Street 5.7

​Nice climbing under a roof and using an arete pulling through to fun climbing above. 4 bolts

26. Slip and Grip 5.10

A few difficult moves lead to a small roof and enjoyable face climbing to the anchors. 5 bolts   Roger Mckinney

24. The Fun Has Just Begun  5.10b

Start under a roof pulling on flakes till a fist jam in the roof crack pulls you over the roof.     FA  Roger Mckinney

22.  Little Big Man  5.10 natural         route

PK  Boulder

​PK  Boulder




Hit List :  Easy Street  5.7                                    Dali  Automatic  5.10                          Face The Facts  5.11b                            Lesbian Stronghold  5.12                     Fistful of Color  5.10b

              

               

               

               


This is the main climbing area , most people never venture past this area, but they should...From parking area head west for about 30 seconds , to top of PK boulder , then follow a trail  down to your right around the boulders to the base of PK boulder (routes 22-26 start here) or stay along top of cliff  line south  for about three minutes till cliff line drops out , you will find a corridor on your right , turn right and follow it till it opens up into climbing area. ( routes 74 & 75  will be on your right and left respectively )


Fern Proper

project .

​South facing

​West facing

Ralph Marston

Climb an arete keeping your right hand and foot on the arete and the left on the face while shooting for the top.  3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

​55. Fistful of Color 5.10b

A slab route requiring good footwork and a will to run it out to the anchors. (though the climbing from second bolt is very easy)  2 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

54. Tiptoe thru the Two Clips 5.7

​South facing

Charlton Heston Boulder

Belief creates the actual fact. William James

Most of us have far more courage than we ever dreamed we possessed.  Dale Carnegie

​North facing

Lesbian Boulder

Climb ,on a nice large flake then heads right to the arete, follow straight up the arete to the top, try and not climb face on your right. If so then route is 5.8. 4 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

41. Lazy Cowgirl 5.10b

37. Black Sugar Madness 5.8

Fun slab climbing carries you on to a small roof and then on to a finishing ledge. 3 bolts              FA  Jerry Barnett

35. Casualty Vampire 5.13c

Short compression move that stops EVERYONE, after that it leads to a fingertip undercling climbing to finish at the same anchors as Alien Disco. 2 bolts  I bolted this in 97, still hasn't seen an accent.

Keep your face to the sunshine and you cannot see a shadow.         Helen Keller

Once you replace negative thoughts with positive ones, you'll start having positive results.           Willie Nelson

​" Routes 22 through 63 "

Slab climbing brings you to an arete then to the anchors. 3 bolts

53. Scream to Sleep 5.10c

North facing

Severely overhanging climbing on pockets and sidepulls lead to the anchors. 2 bolts  FA  Tommy Griffin

​47. Lesbian Stronghold 5.12b

Smaller holds leads into a few tricky but enjoyable climbing through some good reaches.  3 bolts  FA  

​43. Tecate Whore 5.10b

39. Dali Automatic 5.10

Sharp holds start this route and continue through the top. Better have good footwork. 2 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

​East facing

How can this much fun not cost anything and not be illegal ?           Peter Croft

The trick is to visualize it in advance, to find the key that makes turning back more difficult than going up.  Jim Wickwire

Climbing is reaching down into the rucksack of your soul.                Royal Robbins

To succeed,  you must find something to hold on to, something to motivate you, something to inspire you.                Tony Dorsett

​Psychadelic Wall/Boulder

This boulder/wall is located about 100 yards south from the route Gay Mafia.

​East facing

Lesbian Boulder

Crimpy and very sharp holds starting moves climbs into some enjoyable climbing. 3 bolts       FA  Kerry Allen

​42. K.A. 5.10c

A slab start leads to hard moves on the arete and throw to a pocket. 2 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

Start with an obvious flake and proceed on razor sharp holds to a shallow two finger pocket then to the anchors. 2 bolts  FA  Daniel Carnahan    I bolted this in 97 thinking it would be maybe 5.12b/c.... well 17 years later it finally got sent. 

​South facing

Fernclimbing.com

​Slab climbing brings you to a toss up top then on to the anchors. 4 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

38. Cryptic Egyptian 5.9

Nice face climbing on sidepulls and ledges, trying to stay right of the bolts. 4 bolts               FA  Jerry Barnett

57. Gods Waiting Room 5.12/13

Climb a thin crack/seam to the top. 3 bolts       FA  Jerry and Amanda Barnett

This climb is located on the northside of the Charlton Heston Boulder. Pockets and a long reach on small holds get you past the crux and on to the top.  3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

Fun climbing ensues as you work your way up right facing cracks and ledges. 3 bolts                 FA  Jerry Barnett

Its always the simple that produce the marvelous.  Amelia Barr

With self-discipline most anything is possible.                         Theodore Roosevelt

Slap and hook your way up this arete till you reach the top. 2 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett           A 5.8 variation is at the second bolt go left to the crack. 

I hated every moment of training, but I said "Don't quit. Suffer now and live the rest of your life as a champion."  Muhammad Ali

Small Wall Boulder

Pessimism leads to weakness, optimism to power. William James

​Trust in dreams , for in them is hidden the gate to eternity.             Khalil Gibran

Courage always supersedes failure.  Jerry Barnett

​Go after what will make you happy. Love life and live with passion.  Edith Packer

​North facing

Jesus Boulder

East facing.

Deaf and Dumb Boulder

Great bouldery start leads to wonderful climbing. 3 bolts  FA  Roger Mckinney

44. Face the Facts 5.11b

This boulder is south of the Small Wall Boulder, almost next to it.

Small Wall Boulder

Small Wall Boulder

28. Blue Eyed Monkey 5.8

Pull onto a ledge then reach through to some small holds as you climb past the roof and tread left. 6 bolts, This route has a perma draw to protect the crux move.

25. Hipster Hillbilly 5.10d

Start under a roof pulling through and onto the easy face climbing above.  4 bolts, This route has a perma draw to protect the crux.  FA Mike Hong

This north facing boulder is in the Psychadelic wall alcove, next to the Psychadelic Wall/Boulder.

Work your way up an impressive but HARD face using crimps, sidepulls, and whatever you can wish into holds. 3 bolts

​50. Felon Keller 5.12+

This boulder is located next to and south of the Charlton Heston Boulder, almost in the creek.

​South facing

Factual Boulder

​40. Faith Healer 5.10c

​West facing

30. Cosmic Condom 5.5

Its not whether you get knocked down; but whether you get back up.  Vince Lombardi

A short but fun overhanging arete will keep you pulling hard to the end. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

This east facing wall is located west of the route Moses, there are only two routes on this wall.....As of now.

​project

Another bouldery start leads to a small bulge, climb on to some akward holds then shoot for the anchors. 3 bolts  FA  Elliot Bell                     Equipper Jerry Barnett

45. Stranger than Fiction 5.12

Cowgirl Boulder​

A balancey start climbs to a small roof then straight  to the chains. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

34. Alien Disco 5.12

My happiness is not the means to any end. It is the end. It is its own goal. It is its own purpose.               Ayn Rand

I live my life intensely and the rewards are intense.  Peter Croft

West facing

​Psychadelic Wall/Boulder

Its is in your moments of decision that your destiny is shaped.  Tony Robbins

Don't let the fear of striking out hold you back.  Babe Ruth

This boulder is located 100 yards south from the Factual Boulder. 

​East facing

36. Abstract  Ignorance 5.8

​63. Giggle Snort 5.8

​North facing

Easy climbing leads to a thin hard reach up towards the top. 4 bolts                                   FA  Jerry Barnett        

​52. Gay Mafia 5.10c

​49. Omega Man 5.10b

46. Edmond 5.10b

This boulder is located downstream from Cowgirl Boulder  about 100 yards by the creek.

Giggle Snort Boulder

Persistence can change failure into extraordinary achievement. Marv Levy

56. Damage Control 5.8

These boulders face each other in an alcove about 60 yards from the route Fistful of Color.

51. Sh**s Weak 5.10b

East facing

Climb up sidepulls and pockets on an overhanging rock to the hard non positive holds up top. 3 bolts

This boulder is next to the Lesbian Boulder, on the south and north side of the boulder is where the climbing is located.

To the mind that is still, the whole universe surrenders. Loa Tzu

Your destiny is to fulfill those things upon which you focus most intently. So choose to keep your focus on that which is truly magnificent, beautiful and uplifting and joyful. Your life is always moving toward something. 

​To inspire people , you have to be inspired.  Jerry Barnett

​South facing

Psychadelic Wall/Boulder

This mildly interesting route requires you to pull through a few bad holds of crimps and ledges before gaining the anchors. 3 bolts  FA  CB Stotts    This route is bolted....well not so well, meanders everywhere.  This route is northwest of Moses on the cliff line.

48. Moses 5.6

Success is going from failure to failure without losing your enthusiasm. Winston Churchhill

​Proceed through flakes and a crack, to turn a roof.  No anchors  FA  Jerry Barnett

58. Better Off Dead 5.8 natural route

A nice crimps face climb leads to a desperate move up top. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett             Towards the top some people opt to go left missing the crux. 5.10 if so.

Happy Wall

Small holds lead up to an angling crack onto the two pockets towards the top. 3 bolts  FA  Tommy Griffin   Jerry Barnett                          Some climbers start FAR left of the first bolt on an angling crack, if so then 5.8

​23. Show Me Your Donut 5.11a

59. Overdose 5.10c