​This is the main climbing area, encompasses Reservation Wall, Bleeder Boulder, and the Nasty Wall.  If you walk through the corridor from the parking area...well then, you are here.  Climbs are numbered from north to south.

All routes that say project* have been climbed on top rope and the grade a good guess, just waiting to be bolted. If routes says project, it has not been climbed. All routes have anchors unless stated otherwise.

Hit List :  Geisha Girl  5.10

                 Katakana  5.10b

​                 Year of the Dragon 5.11b


This smaller area doesn't  get much love , but it should. There are only seven routes here , but its worth the three minute walk. Walk along the cliff line         ( where " Boob Sweat" is located , route 100) follow a trail heading south , the cliff line will disappear for a minute then pick back up , this is the Oriental Wall. There should be four more routes by spring of 2015 , from 5.10 to 5.11+ located about a three minute walk southwest, across the stream. 

Hit List : Shakey Oakie   5.10

               Measure of pleasure  5.10

               Pimp Daddy 2000   5.9

               Battle Cry  5.12

               Punkrock Mohawk  5.11b


This is the main climbing area , most people never venture past this area, but they should...From parking area head west for about thirty seconds , to top of PK boulder , then follow a trail along top of cliff  line south  for about three minutes till cliff line drops out , you will find a corridor on your right , turn right and follow it till it opens up into climbing area. ( routes 78 & 79  will be on your right and left respectively )

Oriental Wall


Fern Proper

110.  Master Sensei  5.12+  project.*

​West facing

​North facing

North-west facing

​98.  Gutterboy 5.10

Pull through two small roofs and gain access to easy climbing.  3 bolts  FA  Tommy Griffin  Jerry Barnett

97.  Skank 5.10

Climb up to a large ledge then pull through some SMALL crimps and sidepulls to gain access to the upper section....Going left to undercling then bumping to a crimp makes it 11c...going to the right to a sidepull then up to a pocket then jug makes it 11a.

FA Eric "Shazaam " Casazza, 11c

FA Adam Leathers 11

West facing

​Around the corner from Cowboys and Angels.

Work your way up ledges to a lieback crack, turn a small roof, then on to the crux roof, jugs wait for you up top.  5 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

88.  Fear of Fear 5.10b

Some hard climbing gets you to a ledge then continue on through a crux near the top. 4 bolts  FA  Adam Leathers                       Equipper  Jerry Barnett

80. Teenage Anarchist 5.10b

Climb up an arete to a small roof then try the blind throw to finish the top. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

78. Smoke Signals 5.8

Scramble up a block to gain access to a small roof, keep cruising to a balancey crux move up top. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett   Can tread left by third bolt to avoid crux move up top. 5.6 this direction. 

A crack running up the middle of the wall.   FA  Jerry Barnett  no anchors

72. Reservation Crack 5.6                    natural route

​68. War Apache 5.12b

Up an arete to a small roof brings you to the crux and pull through to small edges letting out a battle cry reaching the top.  5 bolts  FA Cole Fennel  Jerry Barnett​

65.  Teepee 5.7 natural route

​Right from the start its hard, pull a small roof, then work your way up to the ledges and the second crux, pull through another roof and easy climbing to anchors.  6 bolts  FA Jerry Barnett

​From the corridor walk 200 yards north along the cliff line, the routes start here.

 Another nice slab with small holds and a few pockets get you to the anchor. Shares anchor with Drunken Monkey.  4 bolts

112.  One Inch Punch  5.13+  ​project*

This area is located south of the Oriental Wall about a seven minute walk. On the right you will see a cairn of rocks and the walls are  about a  thirty second  walk west.

​Thin balancy HARD tendon tweaking crimpy climbing leads to anchors. 4 bolts  FA Eric "Shazzam" Casazza

High step starts this route on a wonderful slab.  Only gets harder as it goes up.  3 bolts.  FA Kevin Wagoner

109.  Kung Fu Grip 5.12c

Side pulls and crimps lead to a shallow one finger pocket toss to another bad hold, finish at anchors.  3 bolts

114. Drunken Monkey  5.10c

Pimp your way through an easy start to a slightly overhanging section up top with a long reach. 4 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

101. Pimp Daddy 2000  5.9

Climb follows bolts. Attain a small ledge then start pulling on sharp crimps to pockets then to a nice rest, shoot for the two huecos. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett                                               Easier version is : Right of bolts, a small water runnel, an arete gets you past the first crux. 5.10​

100. Pocket Pulling Pervert  5.10d

Start with a thin crack then head up to an overhanging section, try to stay with line of bolts up top, not venturing far left.  4 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

91.  Bleeder 5.10b

​Scramble up this easy arete and nice face climbing on jugs, ledges, and pockets.  4 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

​90.  Ole Dirty Loosey 5.6

Same start as Cowboys and Angels, then heads straight up, follow the line of bolts, not heading right to skip crux move at second bolt.   4 bolts FA  Eric Casazzam  Equipper  Jerry Barnett

84.  Blood In Blood Out 5.11

​Follow the path of least resistance as you climb this crack treading left.  FA  Roger Mckinney

83. White Lightning 5.7 natural           route

79. Sitting Bull 5.9

Coming out of the corridor this climb is on your right.

75. White Mans Burden 5.7                       natural route

​Climb up crimps staying in line with bolts, small sidepulls lead into a small iron cross move then continue on up to a nice finish. Most people move FAR right for a shake out at second bolt then continue to the third bolt, missing the nice crux and beautiful moves that get you there... if done this way its 5.10. 5 bolts   FA  Jerry Barnett

71. The Stool 5.10b

Start on a small ledge and climb to a second one , shake out because the business starts here, climb an overhanging section to the anchors. 5 bolts  FA  Chris Robertson  Equipper  Jerry Barnett

69. Fear Apache 5.11b

​Climb a dihedral and an arete through cracks and ledges.  FA Jerry Barnett no anchors​

64.  Punk Rock Mowhawk  5.11b+

            

Fernclimbing.com

A series of side pulls lead to a decent ledge, follow through on crimps to reach the anchors.  (Deceptively hard)  3 bolts

111.  Bruce Lee  5.12+  project*

66.  Anasazi  5.6

Start back in the cave on a fist size crack, climb horizontal out to where the crack works its way vertical, jamming and stemming to the top. no anchors

104. The Great Kabooky 5.10                 natural route

Great route. Turn a small roof then head right to wonderful climbing on edges and sidepulls. 4 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

​103. Geisha Girl 5.10

​Technical face climbing leads to a small roof.  4 bolts  FA  Gina Kirsh  

​93.  White Cell 5.10b

 A crux move awaits you right from the start, climb up a balancey face to another crux move by the overhanging top.  4 bolts FA  Jerry Barnett

92.  Blood Born Pathogen 5.10d

Start on the left side of the arete, work your way up to the right overhanging section. 4 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett  A variation is starting directly under the arete, this is 5.10d

85. Cowboys and Angels 5.10b

​This boulder is located on your left when coming out of the corridor.

Some fun arete climbing has you keeping your balance as you try and unlock the moves. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

  81. Check Point Charlie 5.9

Climb up the arete to a hard move up top, stay on the left side of the arete. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

​74. Pale Face Warrior 5.10c

This route starts under a rock shaped like the state Oklahoma, work your way along through ledges and pockets, nice face climbing.  6 bolts   FA Roger Mckinney

Work your way along an arete to another overhang finish. 5 bolts  FA Roger Mckinney

​Climb the bottom section of Trail of Fears to the ledge then head left to the second bolt of War Apache and finish on that route. 5 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

​67.  Battle Cry 5.12

It doesn't matter how slow you go as long as you don't stop. Confucius

My optimism wears heavy boots and is loud.  Henry Rollins

You can not have a positive life and negative mind.  Joyce Meyer

​In order to carry a positive action, we must develop here a positive vision.  Dalai Lama

Climb up through a chimney as it flares up top, better have some BIG cams or be willing to solo it...I didn't have any cams large enough..oh well.  FA  Jerry Barnett

​95. Sheila's Chimney 5.7 x                    natural route

Climb a thin crack system with nice flakes and ledges.  FA  Jerry Barnett

94.  Oh Shelia 5.7 natural route

Scramble up to a ledge, then pull on side pulls and climb through a roof and on to jugs up top.  4 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

​87.   Measure of Pleasure 5.10b

Easy face climbing leads to turning a roof then pulling through another.  Hard and tricky.  4 bolts  FA  Eric Casazzam                                Equipper  Jerry Barnett

​86. Inner Demons 5.12

Great face climb that takes you through small edges and flakes. 4 bolts  FA  Roger Mckinney Jerry Barnett   There is a variation that starts to the right of the bolts. Very bouldery 5.10c

82. Bloody Monday 5.10

South facing

​76. War Paint 5.8

Lieback a large flake/crack to a ledge then head to the chains.  FA Jerry Barnett

​73 Shakey Oakie 5.10

70. Trail of Fears  5.11c

An awesome route, technical arete climbing leads to a small roof then on to an overhanging finish. 4 bolts FA  Jerry Barnett   Stick clip first bolt.

​More thin HARD crimpy climbing with small lunge leads to anchors. 4 bolts

Climb a series of ledges to gain a crux up top. 4 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

Work your way to a large roof and somehow pull through this beast and climb a great face . 4 bolts

project

Thin climbing to a nice toss gets you up this fun climb. 2 bolts  FA  Bart Kinsinger                Equipper  Jerry Barnett

​99.  Stride of Pride 5.10b

​96.  Walk of Shame 5.11c

A different view of the route facing west

106. Way of the Samurai 5.12+

​105. Bushido 5.11b

A bouldery start leads to small crimps and edges tread left and stay in line of bolts.  3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett  Some people opt to start right on a small arete and water runnel and climb up that way, if so, then 5.8.

Pull through two small roofs and gain access to easy climbing above.  3 bolts  FA  Tommy Griffin  Jerry Barnett

77. Spirit Line 5.10

Easy climbing on ledges and side pulls leads to the anchor.  5 bolts  FA  Jerry and Amanda Barnett

Nice climbing gets you to small roof where the first crux begins , pulling hard gets you through the next small roof and finishes on jugs.  Shares the same anchors as " Fear of Fear"      5 bolts  FA  Eric Casazzam                                     Equipper Jerry Barnett


Climb your way along a few non positive holds to easy climbing up top. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

​107. Katakana 5.10b

Work your way up this overhanging section of dirty rock on big holds, reach for the big roof and pull onto a nice face.  3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett    Will be cleaning bottom section soon and hoping to get a few more bolts in. 

This area is located south along the cliff line from Boob Sweat about a three minute walk.

  " Routes 64 through 106 "

​Dojo Area

113.  Broken Arrow  5.10b

89.  Mind Crime 5.10c

Oriental Wall Area

This sometimes dirty route is noticeable by a tree leaning against it. This route requires strong tendons as well as good footwork as you pull through crimps and pockets. Substained through out. 3 bolts  FA  Jerry Barnett

108. Year of the Dragon 5.11b/c

​106. Way of the Samurai 5.12+

​picture coming soon

​102. Boob Sweat 5.9