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Climbing Lingo
Lieback - climbing move where the hands pull on one side of a crack and the feet push against the other. Very useful for climbing corners
Letter -Box - a deep rectangle pocket with a narrow opening. Also called a mail slot
Lead - to climb a route from bottom to top with out weighting the rope (misused when said "I lead a route" but you weighted the rope
Manky - almost worthless
Mantle - from "mantle shelf" to grab a hold above your head and press down on it as you lever your body upward
Match - to grasp the same hold with both hands
Mono - a pocket that only accepts one finger
Natural gear - non permanent protection that you place yourself
Nuts - nuts are small wedged shaped metal devices that are temporarily placed in cracks in the rock to provide protection
Offwidth - a crack wider than a fist width but narrower than a squeeze chimney
Onsight - when a route is climbed with no falls and absolutely no prior information about the route other than the grade . You only get one chance to onsight a route
Paste - to indiscriminately slap afoot wherever it is needed for upward progress
Pile - a unappealing rock or route
Pinch - a hold that is grasped with your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other
Pocket - a hole in the rock
Pop - a short dynamic move or a fall
Pro - short for protection. removable or permanent equipment placed in the rock which keeps you from hitting the ground
Radtastic - Combining radical and fantastic
Redpoint - climbing a route from bottom to top in one push placing your own pro or quickdraws, and not being supported by anything other than the rock. Coined by Kurt Albert, he would place a red dot at the beginning of every route that he had climbed in this manner
Rope gun - a partner who is a much better climber than you and can consequently lead routes that you would like to do but lack the skill or courage for
Rose move - an extreme cross-through; the climbers body is rotated to the point where he is almost facing out from the rock
Screamer - a long fall
Scumming - a tenuous, ill-defined method of gaining purchase on the rock
Sharp end - the end of the rope used by the leader
Sinker - a very deep pocket or hold
Slab - rock that is less than vertical
Sloper - a rounded hold adhered to mainly by skin friction
Smearing - climbing with obscure footholds where climbers "smear" the soles of their shoes over as much rock surface as possible to get optimal adhesion
Snag - to struggle for and just barely grab a hold
Spotter - a person attempting to keep a boulders body from hitting the ground in the event of a fall
Stick-clip - to clip an out of reach bolt with a stick
Super-cash - a route or move that is super easy. As in super casual
Take - the code word that tells the belayer to reel in rope and hold the climber
Toss - to dynamically reach for a hold with a slight overtone of out of control climbing
Trad - a climber who prefers climbing on protection that he places himself
Trundle - to send rocks down off a route or hillside
Tweak , Tweaked - injury or damage to something like a rope or a tendon
V - grade - an open ended system for rating boulder problems. Named after John "the Verman" Sherman
Vitamin A - ibuprofen (Advil product)
Whipper - a long or violent fall where the climber hits the end of the rope and is snapped like the head on a whip
Wire - a wired nut
Wired - to have it totally figured out
Aggro - short for aggressive
Aid - use of gear to support all or
part of a climbers weight
Barndoor - by losing your balance ,
one side of your body will swing into
space
Belay slave - someone who is motivated to belay you out of devotion or guilt
Beta - information about a route , ranging from gear to movement sequences
Bomber - great placement or great handhold
Campus board - a training device consisting of pockets rounded edges and crimps mounted ladder-like on a piece of wood or some other composite
Cash - easy route or move. As in casual
Choss - loose rock
Cleaning - removal of loose rock , debris , vegetation , or lichen on a route
Cling grip - hand position midway between a crimp and an open hand, where the fingers are bent at 90 degrees
Cord - rope
Crank - to pull very hard
Crimper - a hold requires you to crimp your fingers in order to use it. To crimp a piece of steel is to bend it back on itself
Cross through - put both hands above your head , then reach one across your body so your arm is against your chest.
Crux - the hardest part or move of a climb
Dead hang - to hang straight arms so the weight comes on the skeleton rather than muscles
Dead point - at the apex of every dynamic move there is a moment when all motion stops , a dead point in space
Dicey - dangerously sketchy
Dollys - two round handholds close in proximity. Named after Dolly Parton
Draw monkey - a person you can convince to lead a route and place the gear
Drop knee - a position where one knee points towards the ground and the other towards the sky
Dyno - short for "dynamic move" basically a jump for a hold
Elvis leg - when a climber stands on usually a small hold too long and their leg starts shaking , also known as sewing machine leg
Finger lock - a portion of a crack that tappers sufficiently to accommodate a climbers fingers with some or no effort and locks in place
Fixed pro - any gear that is left in the rock for future use, including nuts , bolts
Flapper - a piece of detached skin
Flash - to climb a route first try without physically touching it
Gaston - try pulling open a elevator door with your bare hands, now try it on a route. Can be done with one or two hands. Named after the climbing stud Gaston Rebuffat
Ghetto - unpleasant, foul , weird
Grades - an attempt to quantify a large amount of information into one small package
Greasy - slimy or slippery
Gripped - extremely scary
Hand crack - an opening in a rock that is either horizontal or vertical
Hand traverse - climbing laterally on rock
Hang - to hang one's body weight on the rope
Hanging belay - a belay stance with no place to stand which means the belayer has to hang off gear
Heel hook - hooking your heel on a protrusion to take weight off your arms
Hooking - a type of aid climbing where the climber hangs a small metal hook on a rock edge then hangs from it and prays it will hold
Hosed - screwed
Hueco - a pocket or hole in the rock
Jamming - a technique for climbing cracks where the hands/or feet are stuffed inside the crack to facilitate upward progress.
Knee bar - sometimes its possible to get a no hands rest by jamming a knee against something with counter pressure against your foot