Fernclimbing.com
Climb over a small roof to a slab then proceed to a slight overhang. 3 bolts
FA Amanda and Jerry Barnett
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21. Accent of a Woman 5.7
This is a top rope problem. Not sure if bolts would hold on the bottom section. But very worth putting a rope through the anchors.
23. Trash to Treasure 5.11b
Worm Hole
Barbie Wall
The only journey is the one within. Rainer Maria Rilke
This area is located about a five minute walk north along cliff line from Dark Matter Wall.
What great thing would you attempt if you knew you could not fail? Robert H. Schuller
Be faithful to that which exists within yourself . Andre Gide
Lord, grant that I may always desire more than I can accomplish. Michelangelo
The best way out is always through. Robert Frost
If we did all the things we are capable of , we would literally astound ourselves. Thomas Edison.
The power of imagination makes us infinite. John Muir
17. Smooth as a Ken Doll 5.10c
Climb through a series of small roofs and an arete, to two larger and more difficult roofs. 4 bolts FA Heath Dieckert
13. Orion 5.11d
Climb up a stiff bouldery start that leads to a big roof, staying under the roof , heel hooking and clipping bolts as you go ,at last bolt pull over to climb to anchors. 5 bolts
12. Worm Hole 5.11
Dark Matter Wall
Small holds lead to large jugs and pockets up top for an overhanging finish. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
Climb through small ledges , cracks and pockets to gain access to the top . no anchors FA Zen Boulden
Climb up to a horizontal crack then bump left to some tendon tweaking holds , follow line of bolts to large and much friendlier climbing. 4 bolts FA Eric Casazza Variation : climb to horizontal crack and head right , missing the crux and saving your tendons, 5.10b FA Jerry Barnett
3. Buck Rogers 5.7 natural route
Tricky slopey holds lead to nice slab climbing. 2 bolts FA Jerry and Amanda Barnett
1. Major Tom 5.10
This area of fern is north ( upstream ) of the main climbing area , about a five minute walk on a trail that follows along the bottom of the cliff line. From parking area walk west about 30 seconds, to PK boulder, walk to the base of PK boulder then head north for about five minutes till you come to a large roof, about 20 feet long and about 15+ feet off the ground, these are routes 12 - 15
project*
Find a place inside where there is joy, and the joy will burn out the pain. Joseph Campbell
Automobile racing, bullfighting and mountaineering are the only true sports , everything is a mere game. Ernest Hemingway
" Routes 1 through 21 "
All routes that say project* have been climbed on top rope and the grade a good guess, just waiting to be bolted. If routes says project, it has not been climbed. All routes have anchors unless stated otherwise.
East facing
This climbs are around the corner, south of "Friends of Ken" (starts from north to south)
North facing
Nice splitter crack , nothing else needs to be said . FA Roger Mckinney Jerry Barnett
24. The Price is Right 5.7 natural route.
This climb is located a few hundred yards south, down stream from the Barbie Wall
This area is located across the stream from Dark Matter Wall and about 50 yards down , look for a cave area.
Barbie Wall
Climb on small holds that lead to a blind hold finish at same anchors as String Theory. 2 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
Start on two pockets and crimp past a few moves to great pockets , sidepulls and flakes , finishing on overhanging rock. ( Don't forget heel hooking ) 5 bolts FA Jerry Barnett "THE BEST ROUTE AT FERN" Even if you don't climb 5.11 put a top rope on it and give it a try !!!!!!!!!
11. Cosmic Cowboy 5.11
Small holds and pockets lead to crimps and side pulls , then through large flakes and finishing on overhanging section. 5 bolts
Start on an obvious flake , climb up the pockets and over a bulge to reach the anchors. 2 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
Put your heart, mind, soul into the smallest acts. This is the secret of success. Swami Sivananda
Nothing is impossible, the word itself says " I'm possible" Audrey Hepburn
Thin holds lead to jugs and side pulls on an overhanging section. 3 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
Start in the corner in the right side of the cave, undercling the crack working your way up and out left to the slab behind you , finishing at the chains. 5.7 FA Roger Mckinney
Hit List.: Cosmic Cowboy 5.11
Satellite 5.10
Bi bye barbie 5.11b
Burly Girl 5.10d
North Fern
Climb an arete through sidepulls while pulling through a roof then advance through a second much larger one to easy climbing above. Should be bolted by spring 2015
East facing
This wall is located 30 yards south of the route Flash Gordon.
Less than vertical climbing leads to a large roof up top. 4 bolts FA Scott Rohde
Northwest facing
South facing
You must do the things you think you cannot do. Eleanor Roosevelt
19.. Friends of Ken . 5.11+
Climb up a small slab and arete to a large roof, reach over and pull through to the anchors. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett This a strange and bizzare climb , nothing like it at Fern , but so worth it!
15. Dark Matter 5.10
Start on a small ledge and pull through deceptively small holds to a blind throw. 2 bolts Clip anchors by grabbing chains. FA Jerry Barnett
14. String Theory 5.10c
Climb up crimps that lead to a balancey crux move to a pocket. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett Stay on face and avoid going right to small arete.
10. Weeping Rodeo Clown 5.11b
Cowboy Wall
Satellite Wall
Scramble up on a boulder to the base of this climb, follow a large flake to the top. Only wish this climb was longer. 2 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
9. Over Easy 5.6
Believe you can and your halfway there. Theodore Roosevelt
Space Cadet Area
4. Flash Gordon 5.10c
2. Space Cadets 5.6
Start with a few small pockets bump to a few slopers that lead to easy slab climbing. 3 bolts