Nice climbing gets you to small roof where the first crux begins , pulling hard gets you through the next small roof and finishes on jugs. Shares the same anchors as " Fear of Fear" 5 bolts FA Eric Casazzam Equipper Jerry Barnett
89. Mind Crime 5.10c
Oriental Wall Area
It doesn't matter how slow you go as long as you don't stop. Confucius
My optimism wears heavy boots and is loud. Henry Rollins
You can not have a positive life and negative mind. Joyce Meyer
In order to carry a positive action, we must develop here a positive vision. Dalai Lama
95. Sheila's Chimney 5.7 x natural route
Climb a thin crack system with nice flakes and ledges. FA Jerry Barnett
94. Oh Shelia 5.7 natural route
Technical face climbing leads to a small roof. 4 bolts FA Gina Kirsh
93. White Cell 5.10b
A crux move awaits you right from the start, climb up a balancey face to another crux move by the overhanging top. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
92. Blood Born Pathogen 5.10d
Start with a thin crack then head up to an overhanging section, try to stay with line of bolts up top, not venturing far left. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
Some hard climbing gets you to a ledge then continue on through a crux near the top. 4 bolts FA Adam Leathers Equipper Jerry Barnett
80. Teenage Anarchist 5.10b
Climb up an arete to a small roof then try the blind throw to finish the top. 3 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
68. War Apache 5.12b
Up an arete to a small roof brings you to the crux and pull through to small edges letting out a battle cry reaching the top. 5 bolts FA Cole Fennel Jerry Barnett
67. Battle Cry 5.12
Climb a dihedral and an arete through cracks and ledges. FA Jerry Barnett no anchors
This is the main climbing area, encompasses Reservation Wall, Bleeder Boulder, and the Nasty Wall. If you walk through the corridor from the parking area...well then, you are here. Climbs are numbered from north to south.
All routes that say project* have been climbed on top rope and the grade a good guess, just waiting to be bolted. If routes says project, it has not been climbed. All routes have anchors unless stated otherwise.
Hit List : Geisha Girl 5.10
Katakana 5.10b
Year of the Dragon 5.11b
This smaller area doesn't get much love , but it should. There are only seven routes here , but its worth the three minute walk. Walk along the cliff line ( where " Boob Sweat" is located , route 100) follow a trail heading south , the cliff line will disappear for a minute then pick back up , this is the Oriental Wall. There should be four more routes by spring of 2015 , from 5.10 to 5.11+ located about a three minute walk southwest, across the stream.
Hit List : Shakey Oakie 5.10
Measure of pleasure 5.10
Pimp Daddy 2000 5.9
Battle Cry 5.12
Punkrock Mohawk 5.11b
This is the main climbing area , most people never venture past this area, but they should...From parking area head west for about thirty seconds , to top of PK boulder , then follow a trail along top of cliff line south for about three minutes till cliff line drops out , you will find a corridor on your right , turn right and follow it till it opens up into climbing area. ( routes 78 & 79 will be on your right and left respectively )
Oriental Wall
Fern Proper
Another nice slab with small holds and a few pockets get you to the anchor. Shares anchor with Drunken Monkey. 4 bolts
112. One Inch Punch 5.13+ project*
This area is located south of the Oriental Wall about a seven minute walk. On the right you will see a cairn of rocks and the walls are about a thirty second walk west.
Thin balancy HARD tendon tweaking crimpy climbing leads to anchors. 4 bolts FA Eric "Shazzam" Casazza
106. Way of the Samurai 5.12+
Work your way up this overhanging section of dirty rock on big holds, reach for the big roof and pull onto a nice face. 3 bolts FA Jerry Barnett Will be cleaning bottom section soon and hoping to get a few more bolts in.
105. Bushido 5.11b
picture coming soon
85. Cowboys and Angels 5.10b
This boulder is located on your left when coming out of the corridor.
Same start as Cowboys and Angels, then heads straight up, follow the line of bolts, not heading right to skip crux move at second bolt. 4 bolts FA Eric Casazzam Equipper Jerry Barnett
84. Blood In Blood Out 5.11
Lieback a large flake/crack to a ledge then head to the chains. FA Jerry Barnett
75. White Mans Burden 5.7 natural route
71. The Stool 5.10b
Start on a small ledge and climb to a second one , shake out because the business starts here, climb an overhanging section to the anchors. 5 bolts FA Chris Robertson Equipper Jerry Barnett
69. Fear Apache 5.11b
64. Punk Rock Mowhawk 5.11b+
From the corridor walk 200 yards north along the cliff line, the routes start here.
This sometimes dirty route is noticeable by a tree leaning against it. This route requires strong tendons as well as good footwork as you pull through crimps and pockets. Substained through out. 3 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
108. Year of the Dragon 5.11b/c
Climb your way along a few non positive holds to easy climbing up top. 3 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
107. Katakana 5.10b
A different view of the route facing west
106. Way of the Samurai 5.12+
Work your way to a large roof and somehow pull through this beast and climb a great face . 4 bolts
project
" Routes 64 through 106 "
A bouldery start leads to small crimps and edges tread left and stay in line of bolts. 3 bolts FA Jerry Barnett Some people opt to start right on a small arete and water runnel and climb up that way, if so, then 5.8.
99. Stride of Pride 5.10b
Pull through two small roofs and gain access to easy climbing above. 3 bolts FA Tommy Griffin Jerry Barnett
90. Ole Dirty Loosey 5.6
West facing
Around the corner from Cowboys and Angels.
Work your way up ledges to a lieback crack, turn a small roof, then on to the crux roof, jugs wait for you up top. 5 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
83. White Lightning 5.7 natural route
Great face climb that takes you through small edges and flakes. 4 bolts FA Roger Mckinney Jerry Barnett There is a variation that starts to the right of the bolts. Very bouldery 5.10c
82. Bloody Monday 5.10
Some fun arete climbing has you keeping your balance as you try and unlock the moves. 3 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
Climb up the arete to a hard move up top, stay on the left side of the arete. 3 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
78. Smoke Signals 5.8
Climb up crimps staying in line with bolts, small sidepulls lead into a small iron cross move then continue on up to a nice finish. Most people move FAR right for a shake out at second bolt then continue to the third bolt, missing the nice crux and beautiful moves that get you there... if done this way its 5.10. 5 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
74. Pale Face Warrior 5.10c
A crack running up the middle of the wall. FA Jerry Barnett no anchors
72. Reservation Crack 5.6 natural route
70. Trail of Fears 5.11c
An awesome route, technical arete climbing leads to a small roof then on to an overhanging finish. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett Stick clip first bolt.
Right from the start its hard, pull a small roof, then work your way up to the ledges and the second crux, pull through another roof and easy climbing to anchors. 6 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
110. Master Sensei 5.12+ project.*
West facing
Start back in the cave on a fist size crack, climb horizontal out to where the crack works its way vertical, jamming and stemming to the top. no anchors
104. The Great Kabooky 5.10 natural route
Scramble up a block to gain access to a small roof, keep cruising to a balancey crux move up top. 3 bolts FA Jerry Barnett Can tread left by third bolt to avoid crux move up top. 5.6 this direction.
76. War Paint 5.8
This route starts under a rock shaped like the state Oklahoma, work your way along through ledges and pockets, nice face climbing. 6 bolts FA Roger Mckinney
73 Shakey Oakie 5.10
Work your way along an arete to another overhang finish. 5 bolts FA Roger Mckinney
Climb the bottom section of Trail of Fears to the ledge then head left to the second bolt of War Apache and finish on that route. 5 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
65. Teepee 5.7 natural route
High step starts this route on a wonderful slab. Only gets harder as it goes up. 3 bolts. FA Kevin Wagoner
109. Kung Fu Grip 5.12c
Side pulls and crimps lead to a shallow one finger pocket toss to another bad hold, finish at anchors. 3 bolts
114. Drunken Monkey 5.10c
North facing
North-west facing
Great route. Turn a small roof then head right to wonderful climbing on edges and sidepulls. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
103. Geisha Girl 5.10
This area is located south along the cliff line from Boob Sweat about a three minute walk.
Thin climbing to a nice toss gets you up this fun climb. 2 bolts FA Bart Kinsinger Equipper Jerry Barnett
97. Skank 5.10
Climb up to a large ledge then pull through some SMALL crimps and sidepulls to gain access to the upper section....Going left to undercling then bumping to a crimp makes it 11c...going to the right to a sidepull then up to a pocket then jug makes it 11a.
FA Eric "Shazaam " Casazza, 11c
FA Adam Leathers 11
91. Bleeder 5.10b
Scramble up this easy arete and nice face climbing on jugs, ledges, and pockets. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
Easy face climbing leads to turning a roof then pulling through another. Hard and tricky. 4 bolts FA Eric Casazzam Equipper Jerry Barnett
86. Inner Demons 5.12
Follow the path of least resistance as you climb this crack treading left. FA Roger Mckinney
South facing
Fernclimbing.com
A series of side pulls lead to a decent ledge, follow through on crimps to reach the anchors. (Deceptively hard) 3 bolts
111. Bruce Lee 5.12+ project*
66. Anasazi 5.6
More thin HARD crimpy climbing with small lunge leads to anchors. 4 bolts
Climb a series of ledges to gain a crux up top. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
77. Spirit Line 5.10
Easy climbing on ledges and side pulls leads to the anchor. 5 bolts FA Jerry and Amanda Barnett
Dojo Area
113. Broken Arrow 5.10b
Pimp your way through an easy start to a slightly overhanging section up top with a long reach. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
101. Pimp Daddy 2000 5.9
Climb follows bolts. Attain a small ledge then start pulling on sharp crimps to pockets then to a nice rest, shoot for the two huecos. 3 bolts FA Jerry Barnett Easier version is : Right of bolts, a small water runnel, an arete gets you past the first crux. 5.10
100. Pocket Pulling Pervert 5.10d
98. Gutterboy 5.10
Pull through two small roofs and gain access to easy climbing. 3 bolts FA Tommy Griffin Jerry Barnett
96. Walk of Shame 5.11c
Climb up through a chimney as it flares up top, better have some BIG cams or be willing to solo it...I didn't have any cams large enough..oh well. FA Jerry Barnett
88. Fear of Fear 5.10b
Scramble up to a ledge, then pull on side pulls and climb through a roof and on to jugs up top. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett
87. Measure of Pleasure 5.10b
Start on the left side of the arete, work your way up to the right overhanging section. 4 bolts FA Jerry Barnett A variation is starting directly under the arete, this is 5.10d
Coming out of the corridor this climb is on your right.
102. Boob Sweat 5.9
81. Check Point Charlie 5.9
79. Sitting Bull 5.9